DEDICATED TO DAIMLER FERRET SCOUT CAR  RECONNAISSANCE OWNERS WHO WISH TO MAINTAIN THEIR OWN VEHICLE.  ( DAIMLER FERRET MAINTENANCE BRAKES BRAKE CYLINDER WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY ENGINE )

OWNERS AND SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY PLEASE:

john@smokingairplanes.com

PLEASE KEEP YOUR QUESTIONS SHORT AND TO THE POINT  

PURCHASE 5/16-24 THREADED ROD AND FOUR (4) 5/16-24 NUTS.  MAKE TWO 3 INCH LONG BOLTS AS SHOWN USING THE THREADED ROD AND NUTS.  NOTE: TIGHTEN NUTS TOGETHER TO LOCK THEM ONTO ONE END OF THE THREADED ROD.

THREADED ROD BOLTS

MY NAME FOR THESE PARTS
ROLLER BEARING STAR ASSEMBLY	ROUND FLAT PLATE THAT COVERS THE SMALL GEARS	SMALL GEAR CAGE

HELPFUL TIP*********  FROM THIS POINT ON, LAY ALL OF THE PARTS OUT ON RAGS IN THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY WERE REMOVED.

BEGIN THE PROCESS: 

CHALK THE VEHICLE.

JACK THE VEHICLE AND PLACE A MINIMUM 5 TON JACK STAND UNDER IT FOR SAFETY.

REMOVE THE WHEEL.

RELEASE THE PARKING BRAKE.

RETRACT THE BRAKE SHOES BY TURNING THE ADJUSTERS (UP ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS RETRACT, DOWN ON THE LEFT SIDE IS RETRACT).  YOU WILL NEED TWO (2) 3/4" WRENCHES.  WHEN RETRACTED PROPERLY, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO MOVE THE DRUM LEFT AND RIGHT ON THE HUB. 

REMOVE THE TWO FLAT HEAD SCREWS HOLDING THE BRAKE DRUM TO THE HUB.

SCREW THE THREADED ROD BOLTS INTO THE TWO THREADED HOLES ON THE DRUM.

NOTE: NOT THE TWO HOLES THAT YOU JUST REMOVED THE FLAT HEAD SCREW FROM.

TURN THE THREADED ROD BOLTS IN HALF A TURN EACH AT A TIME UNTIL THE DRUM IS REMOVED.

USE A AIR IMPACT GUN TO REMOVE THE CAP SCREWS FROM THE HUBCAP.  THE AIR IMPACT GUN WILL KEEP YOU FROM ROUNDING OUT THE HEX IN THE CAP SCREW.

PLACE A OIL DRIP PAN UNDER THE HUBCAP THEN

TAP THE HUBCAP OFF WITH A HAMMER.

BEND THE LOCK WASHER TAB BACK FROM THE LARGE NUT THEN REMOVE LARGE NUT AND LOCK WASHER.

USE THE AIR IMPACT GUN WITH A 1/2" SOCKET TO REMOVE THE SIX (6) BOLTS FROM THE "ROLLER BEARING STAR ASSEMBLY."  PURCHASE NEW LOCK WASHERS OF THE SAME TYPE FOR RE-ASSEMBLING.

SCREW THE THREADED ROD BOLTS INTO THE TWO HOLES ON THE "ROLLER BEARING STAR ASSEMBLY" AND USE THEM TO PRESS THE STAR ASSEMBLY OFF OF THE AXLE AS YOU DID THE DRUM FROM THE HUB.

BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE THIN SHIMS BEHIND THE ROLLER BEARING, REMOVE THE SHIMS AND THE LARGE CENTER GEAR.  NOTE: THERE IS A THICK SPACER BEHIND THE LARGE GEAR THAT MIGHT STICK TO THE GEAR AS YOU REMOVE IT...SO DON'T LET IT FALL INTO YOUR OIL DRIP PAN. 

REMOVE THE THICK SPACER BEHIND THE LARGE GEAR.

REMOVE THE COTTER PINS, CASTLE NUTS AND WASHERS FROM THE ROUND FLAT PLATE THAT COVERS THE SMALL GEARS.

SCREW THE TWO THREADED ROD BOLTS AND ONE OF THE BOLTS FROM THE "ROLLER BEARING STAR ASSEMBLY" INTO THE FLAT PLATE AND REMOVE IT AS YOU DID THE "ROLLER BEARING STAR ASSEMBLY" AND DRUM.

NOTE: WHEN YOU REMOVE THE PLATE A COUPLE OF THE NEEDLE BEARING RETAINING RINGS MIGHT STAY ATTACHED TO THE PLATE.  DON'T LET THEM FALL INTO YOUR OIL DRIP PAN.  KEEP TRACK OF WHICH SMALL GEAR THEY CAME OFF OF.  YOU SHOULD NOTE THE SHAFT THAT EACH SMALL GEAR WAS REMOVED FROM AND KEEP THE SMALL GEARS, NEEDLE BEARINGS AND RETAINER RINGS TOGETHER FOR RE-ASSEMBLY ON THE SAME SHAFT.

REMOVE THE OIL DRIP PAN BEFORE REMOVING THE SMALL GEARS AND NEEDLE BEARINGS, PLACE A CLEAN RAG ON THE FLOOR WHERE THE OIL DRIP PAN WAS TO CATCH ANY NEEDLE BEARINGS THAT WILL FALL OUT.  COUNT THEM...THERE ARE 24 NEEDLE BEARINGS PER SMALL GEAR.

USE A SCREWDRIVER OR OTHER FLAT INSTRUMENT TO BEND THE LOCKING TABS AWAY FROM THE BOLT HEADS ON THE "SMALL GEAR CAGE."  USE THE IMPACT GUN AGAIN TO REMOVE THE BOLTS. 

SCREW A COUPLE OF THE CASTLE NUTS BACK ONTO THE SMALL GEAR CAGE GEAR POSTS AS SHOWN.  USE A BLOCK OF WOOD TO PROTECT THE GASKET SURFACE OF THE HUB THEN PRY THE SMALL GEAR CAGE SIDE TO SIDE UNTIL REMOVED.

NOTE:  THE SMALL GEAR CAGE MIGHT SUDDENLY FALL OUT AND WITH IT THE LARGE 'OUTER' ROLLER BEARING BEHIND IT SO BE READY FOR THAT.  TRY TO KEEP CONTROL SO IT DOESN'T FALL OUT BECAUSE YOU COULD DAMAGE THE SHIMS ON THE AXLE BEHIND THE SMALL GEAR CAGE.  ALSO NOTE THAT THERE ARE TWO LARGE ROLLER BEARINGS BEHIND THE SMALL GEAR CAGE, THE 'OUTER BEARING' AND THE 'INNER BEARING.'  MARK THEM INNER AND OUTER SO YOU'LL REPLACE THEM INTO THEIR RESPECTIVE RACE UPON RE-ASSEMBLY. 

NOTE:  ONE OF THE DOWELS ON THE AXLE AND THE SMALL GEAR GAGE HAVE PUNCH MARKS (LOCATION MARKS) STAMPED ON THEM FOR PROPER ALIGNMENT WHEN RE-ASSEMBLED (SHOWN BELOW).

WHEN YOU REMOVE THE SMALL GEAR GAGE YOU'LL SEE SHIMS ON THE AXLE SHAFT THAT SLIDE OVER THE STEEL DOWELS.   BE CAREFUL WITH THEM, THEY ARE THIN AND FRAGILE.

IF THE LARGE ROLLER BEARING DOESN'T SLIDE OUT EASILY YOU CAN USE THE REMAINING PORTION OF THE WHEEL HUB (THE LARGE PART STILL ON THE AXLE WITH THE LUG BOLTS ON IT....SHOWN BELOW) AS A SLIDE HAMMER TO BEAT IT OUT.  I TAPED AROUND IT WITH A HAMMER BECAUSE I DIDN'T HAVE THE PROPER TOOL WHICH IS A LARGE GEAR/PULLEY PULLER. 

ON ONE OF MY AXLES, THE INNER AND OUTER BEARINGS WHERE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.  AFTER REMOVAL, I USED SAND PAPER THEN FOLLOWED UP WITH A HIGH SPEED MEDIUM TO LIGHT BRISTLE WIRE WHEEL TO POLISH THE SHAFT.  I ALSO USED THE WIRE WHEEL ON THE INSIDE OF THE BEARINGS.  IT TOOK A LOT OF SANDING BEFORE THE BEARINGS SLID ON THE SHAFT WITH SLIGHT RESISTANCE FOR RE-ASSEMBLY. 

TO REMOVE THE SEAL FROM THE BACK OF THE HUB I USED A PUNCH TO BEND THE EDGE OF THE SEAL TOWARD THE MIDDLE THEN PRIED IT OUT WITH A CLAW HAMMER.  AFTER REMOVING THE SEAL YOU CAN REMOVE THE "INNER" LARGE BEARING.  THERE IS A RING SPACER BETWEEN THE SEAL AND THE INNER BEARING TOO.   

THE RING GEAR PORTION OF THE HUB OR CENTER PORTION OF THE HUB (HELD IN PLACE WITH TWO CAP SCREWS) SHOULD BE SEPARATED, GASKET SURFACES CLEANED AND RE-ASSEMBLED USING A GASKET FORMING MATERIAL (PERMATEX ITEM #29208 "THE RIGHT STUFF GASKET").  IF YOU DON'T SEPARATE THIS PART THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE IT WILL LEAK IN THE FUTURE.  A LEAK FROM THIS PORTION OF THE HUB WILL ENTER THE DRUM THROUGH THE LUG BOLT HOLES AND CONTAMINATE THE BRAKE SHOES...THIS HAPPENED TO ME  >:-(

I USED A MEDIUM TO FINE BRISTLE WIRE WHEEL TO CLEAN ALL GASKET SURFACES.

REPLACE THE SEAL LIKE YOU WOULD ANY OTHER SEAL.  I SMEARED A LITTLE OF "THE RIGHT STUFF GASKET" AROUND THE EDGE WHERE THE SEAL SEATS BEFORE I PRESSED THE OIL SEAL INTO PLACE.  DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL THE LARGE "INNER" BEARING AND THE RING SPACER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SEAL!  

OIL SEAL: SKF #43650  UPDATE ON THIS SEAL AS OF OCTOBER 7, 2011***** ONE OF MY HUB SEALS IS LEAKING (AGAIN).  NOT SURE IF IT'S A PROBLEM WITH THE SEAL SIZE AS THE INSIDE DIMENSION WAS A LITTLE TIGHT ON THE SPINDLE (MAY HAVE FOLDED THE LIP OVER AND IT'S RIDING ON THE EDGE OF THE SEAL). YOUR BEST BET IS TO PURCHASE OEM (ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER) PART

GASKET MATERIAL (NO PAPER) PERMATEX ITEM #29208 "THE RIGHT STUFF GASKET"

THE BEND OVER TABS ON THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SMALL GEAR CAGE ONTO THE AXLE APPEARED TO HAVE BEEN USED A COUPLE OF TIMES BEFORE.  I BELIEVED THEY WERE NOT SERVICEABLE SO I MADE NEW ONES.   ^^^^^CAUTION^^^^^ IF YOU MAKE YOUR OWN THE MATERIAL MUST BE THE SAME THICKNESS AS THE ORIGINAL PART.  ANY THICKER AND THE BOLT HEAD HOLDING THE SMALL GEAR CAGE TO THE AXLE WILL HIT THE LARGE CENTER GEAR UPON RE-ASSEMBLING.  ALSO, THE MATERIAL SHOULD BEND AS EASILY AS THE ORIGINAL PART.

I USED A THIN CUT OFF SAW BLADE IN A DIE GRINDER, BENCH GRINDER AND WIRE WHEEL TO MANUFACTURE THE PARTS.     

TORQUE VALUES:::  FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE WITH VARIOUS SIZE BOLTS AND THEIR APPROXIMATE TORQUE VALUES, I ESTIMATED (USED ELBOW TORQUE) TO RE-ASSEMBLE. 

I CLEANED AND USED MEDIUM (BLUE) THREAD LOCK ON THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SMALL GEAR CAGE IN PLACE.  DO NOT OVER TORQUE!

******************* NOTE *************NOTE ***********NOTE ******************

IF YOU SUSPECT ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR BRAKES NOW IS THE TIME TO  ADDRESS IT.  THE BRAKE SHOE CARRIERA AND THE SHOE ACTUATORS ARE ONLY REMOVEABLE WITH THE HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVED!

QUICK NOTES ON BRAKES THE SHOES ARE SIMPLY PRIED OUT OF THE SHOE CARRIERS, NO NEED TO REMOVE THE SPRINGS AND CARRIERS TO REPLACE SHOES.  I HAD MY SHOES RELINED AT A SHOE RELINING PLACE IN LOS ANGELES FOR $25 EACH SHOE.
PULL DOWN ON THE ADJUSTER SIDE, LOWER SHOW CARRIER THEN UP TO RELEASE LIGHTER SIZE SPRING	PULL LOWER SHOE CARRIER OUT FROM SHOE ACTUATOR TO REMOVE HEAVY SPRING ***ASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER	THE RADIUS PART OF THE SHOE CARRIER IS THE SHOE ACTUATOR SIDE
THE SHOE ACTUATOR IS ONLY REMOVABLE FROM THE BACK PLATE WITH THE HUB REMOVED.  TAKE IT OFF, TAKE IT APART, CLEAN IT, GREASE IT AND REASSEMBLE	FLAT SIDE OF THE SHOE RETAINER ON THE ADJUSTER TOWARD THE BACK PLATE

MORE TO FOLLOW...............................